Maytag refrigerators often include advanced cooling modes like PowerCold, designed to quickly restore internal temperatures. If the fridge runs continuously but doesn't cool enough, this could signal a malfunctioning thermistor or control board misreading temperature data. Over time, sensors may lose accuracy, especially in humid climates. Replacing the thermistor usually resolves this problem and restores normal cycling.

In many Maytag models, a common issue is when the freezer compartment stays cold while the refrigerator section gets too warm. This typically points to a failed evaporator fan motor or a blocked airflow duct. Ice buildup or a stuck damper door can prevent cold air from reaching the fridge. Clearing obstructions and testing fan function usually brings balance back to both compartments.

Maytag fridges with built-in water and ice dispensers may stop working due to a faulty dual inlet valve or electronic control board failure. In some models, a child lock feature may also be unintentionally enabled. If the display is active but nothing dispenses, it's worth checking the valve solenoids and ensuring the control lock is disengaged.

If your Maytag refrigerator makes a repeated clicking noise from the rear panel and then fails to cool, it's often the result of a failed compressor start relay. This inexpensive part is critical for energizing the compressor without it, cooling can't begin. Replacing the relay and checking the compressor's amperage draw can confirm whether a deeper issue exists.

Even though Maytag refrigerators are labeled as frost-free, a failing defrost heater or bimetal thermostat can allow ice to build up on the evaporator coils. This restricts airflow and causes temperature inconsistencies. You might notice frost along the back panel or a whirring noise from an iced-up fan. Testing defrost components and replacing them as needed restores proper function.